Some of you may call these rompers or all in ones. But to me they are baby gros. Rompers are footless and vests are the legless versions. Anyway here is the pattern part of the tutorial with sewing part to follow.
You need your :
- your doll
- soft tape measure
- ruler, pencil and paper
- 0-3 month baby gro
You will need many measurements as follows: All measurement take into account any bends at knees and elbows
ONE: armpit to base of foot
TWO: crotch to base of foot
THREE: across crotch (between legs)
FOUR: top of foot (foot flat measure from one side to other)
FIVE: all round top foot round top and sole
SIX: width of foot sole at toes
SEVEN: width of feel at heel
EIGHT: length of foot from toe to heel
NINE: armpit to wrist
TEN: widest part of torso (round hips, waist or chest)
ELEVEN: widest point of arm
TWELVE: widest point of leg
THIRTEEN: front neck to central crotch
FOURTEEN: back neck to central crotch
NINETEEN: ankle to toe(top of foot)
Measurements above will be referred to as written. Any measurements you need to add on top will be as a number. It was only way to do this without completely confusing you!
Find the approximate centre of your paper and mark half of ten. Following that line draw line (A) the same as ONE measurement plus 2 cm seam allowance.
From (A) mark (B) which is half seventeen plus 1 cm seam allowance (SA).
On (A) mark measurement two plus 1 cm with a dot. Divide your crotch measurement by 2.5, half top of leg measurement and add these two together.
From that dot on line (A) mark the amount you just worked out and mark as (C). Join (B) and (C).
From (C) mark up to (D) the same length as thirteen.
On top of line (A) mark (E). From (E) mark outwards measurement nine minus 3 cm. This is for the cuff you will add later. If you want a shorter cuff take off less or more.
From (E) mark upwards from there half widest arm measurement plus 1 cm. (H)
From (F) mark (G) which is half wrist measurement plus 1 cm.
From (H) mark (I) this is your shoulder measurement.
Join (I) and (D). This is your front neck line. Curve this slightly then square up from (D) and mark the back neck line as shown. You now have your main piece. Mark arrows as shown this is direction your stretch should go in. You will need to cut this out and trace 2 halfs together to make a full front/back pattern piece. (see below)
I’ll add at this point for some measurements I added seam allowance. Others I didn’t this is due to different areas stretching differently. Plus the material baby gros are made from have certain amount of ease anyway.
Now for the cuffs. Mine looks almost square but isn’t. Mark one line 6cm. This comes from the 3 cm you took off sleeve earlier on x 2 due to fact the cuff is one piece folded over then sewn on. From there measure the wrist measurement. When cutting out you need stretch to go across wrist so can be stretch for ease of dressing. Don’t add any extra seam allowances to width as you want it slightly smaller than actual sleeve width.
Now onto the foot part. If you feel you can’t add feet you can just add extra 2-3 cm to the gro legs and round them off. If you do want ‘proper’ feet Mark a line that is same as foot length. Now add 1 cm to the foot width measurements six & seven. Centre the measurement on line. So six for me is is 3 cm add 1 cm makes 4 cm. I line my ruler up so 2 cm is in line with the middle line and draw a 4cm line. I end up with 2 cm either side. Hope that makes sense.
Draw in your foot shape making sure you don’t compromise on the width.
It will look too big but once sewn up will be right.
Now take the top of foot measurement add 1 cm and draw a line. Mark midpoint on the line and mark measurement nineteen. Then draw in a curve. This is the top of foot section that joins the leg.
Both need cutting with stretch of fabric going across the width.
Lay your gro out on your cutting table and bring legs together so they are straight. Place your pattern on so the join at legs meets the join of gro as shown. Don’t meet this up with the gusset pretend that isn’t there and match to base of buttons before they fork out to legs.
Pin rest on meeting the inside legs with leg edges. You will be using the poppers so only need to cut outside edges. Depending on the size of your baby the arms should meet exactly with edge. This is for a 12-14 inch doll so any bigger and I suggest a bigger gro to work with.
If the base of the legs meet closely with a popper cut extra or you won’t be able to sew it and you will have a gro too short in the legs.
Cut the cuffs out of one arm and the foot sections from the foot.
Cut your front neck line in on the front section only. You should be. able to see the back of the inside like so
On many gros you have a binding at the neck and previously I’ve picked that off and reused. However this one has a facing inside and no binding. So I cut a facing from the other sleeve. I did this by following the neck and shoulder lines for top then cut a curve as can see. You will need a back one too.
I hope you managed to follow this. Come back next week for the sewing tutorial to continue this project.
Here is one I did earlier. I bought this ladybird gro off ebay and made this smaller one. You almost can’t tell it’s a different size.
This is the smaller gro without the custom feet I went back and redid them later. This is a close up of my very bad stitching reusing the neck binding.
Here’s the girls in their matching gros and you can see I made a feature out of Maisie’s this is when I decided to redo Dolly’s.